Preparing Your Property for Winter: The Complete Landlord's Winterization Guide

By PropsManager Team · Maintenance & Repairs · Nov 03, 2025

I got the call at 2:47 AM on a Sunday morning in January. A pipe had burst in the ceiling of my duplex's first-floor unit. Water was pouring through the light fixtures, soaking the carpet, warping the hardwood in the hallway, and absolutely destroying a tenant's couch. The repair bill? $11,400. The lost rent during restoration? Another $3,200. The worst part? The whole thing was preventable with about $85 worth of pipe insulation and 45 minutes of work in October.

That expensive lesson taught me something every landlord eventually learns: winter doesn't care about your profit margins. It'll freeze your pipes, kill your furnace, dam your gutters, and send your tenants scrambling — all while you're writing checks to emergency contractors who charge double on holidays.

But here's the good news. Winterizing a rental property isn't complicated. It's just a matter of doing the right things at the right time, ideally before the first hard freeze rolls in. This guide covers everything — from HVAC inspections to tenant communication — so you can protect your investment and keep your tenants warm without blowing your maintenance budget.

Why Winter Preparation Matters More Than You Think

According to the Insurance Institute for Business & Home Safety, water damage from frozen pipes costs the U.S. insurance industry roughly $1 billion per year. The average claim for a burst pipe runs between $5,000 and $15,000, depending on how long the water flows before someone catches it.

And it's not just pipes. A failed furnace on a Friday night means an emergency HVAC call at $250–$500 just for the service visit, plus parts. Ice dams can force water under your shingles and into the walls, leading to mold problems that cost thousands to remediate. Drafty windows drive up utility bills, and when tenants are paying those bills, they start looking for a new apartment.

Then there's the liability angle. In most jurisdictions, landlords are legally required to provide adequate heating. If your furnace dies and you can't get it fixed within a reasonable timeframe, you could face code violations, rent withholding, or even lawsuits. Not worth it.

The bottom line: spending $500–$1,500 on fall winterization routinely prevents $5,000–$20,000 in winter emergencies. That's a return on investment any landlord should love.

The Complete Winter Preparation Checklist

Here's a structured breakdown of everything you should tackle before temperatures drop below freezing. I've organized it by priority so you can work through it systematically.

Let's dig into each one.

Service the Heating System Early

This is the single most important thing on your list. Full stop.

I schedule HVAC inspections for all my properties in September or early October. Why so early? Because by November, every HVAC tech in town is booked solid with emergency calls from landlords who didn't plan ahead. You'll wait longer and pay more.

A standard furnace tune-up runs $80–$150 and typically includes cleaning the burner assembly, checking the heat exchanger for cracks, testing the ignition system, inspecting the flue, and verifying the thermostat is calibrated correctly. For boiler systems, the tech will check pressure levels, bleed radiators, and inspect the expansion tank.

Replace Filters — Yes, All of Them

Dirty furnace filters are the number one cause of heating system failures. A clogged filter restricts airflow, forces the system to work harder, and can overheat the heat exchanger. Worst case? The heat exchanger cracks, leaking carbon monoxide into the unit. That's not a repair bill — that's a tragedy.

I keep a stock of filters in my garage. Standard 1-inch filters cost $5–$10 each and should be changed every 30–90 days during heavy use. If you're managing multiple units, tracking filter changes across properties can get chaotic fast. Tools like PropsManager's maintenance tracking features let you set recurring maintenance reminders so nothing slips through the cracks.

Don't Forget the Backup

If your property relies on a heat pump, make sure the auxiliary heating strips are functional. Heat pumps lose efficiency below 35°F, and if the backup heat doesn't kick in, your tenants are sitting in a cold apartment calling you at midnight.

Insulate Pipes to Prevent Freezing and Bursting

This is the one that cost me $11,400. Don't skip it.

Any pipe running through an unheated space is at risk: basements, crawl spaces, garages, exterior walls, and attics. Water freezes at 32°F, but pipes can start freezing when outdoor temperatures hit 20°F because of wind chill and poor insulation.

Foam pipe insulation sleeves cost about $3–$5 per 6-foot section at any hardware store. You slit them lengthwise and snap them over the pipe. The whole job takes maybe an hour for a typical single-family rental.

For high-risk areas, consider adding heat tape or heat cable. These electric heating elements wrap around the pipe and keep it above freezing. They run about $15–$50 depending on length and are especially worthwhile in crawl spaces and uninsulated garages.

Know Your Shutoff Valves

While you're down there insulating pipes, locate and test every water shutoff valve in the property. Label them if they aren't already. When a pipe does burst — and eventually one will — the difference between a $500 repair and a $15,000 disaster is how fast someone can shut off the water. Make sure your tenants know where the main shutoff is, too.

Clean Gutters and Downspouts

Clogged gutters are a slow-motion disaster. Here's how it plays out:

1. Leaves and debris block the gutter
2. Water backs up and freezes along the roof edge
3. Ice dams form, preventing snowmelt from draining
4. Water pools behind the dam and seeps under the shingles
5. You've got water in the walls, ceiling damage, and potentially mold

I've seen ice dam repairs run $2,000–$8,000 depending on the extent of the damage. Gutter cleaning costs $100–$250 for a typical two-story home. The math speaks for itself.

Clean gutters at least once in late fall after most leaves have dropped. Make sure downspouts extend at least 4–6 feet away from the foundation to prevent water pooling and basement seepage. If you're dealing with properties surrounded by mature trees, consider installing gutter guards — they'll pay for themselves within two seasons.

Seal Windows and Doors Against Drafts

Drafty windows and doors don't just make tenants uncomfortable — they drive up heating costs significantly. The Department of Energy estimates that air leaks account for 25–30% of heating energy use in the average home.

Walk through each unit and check for drafts around windows, doors, electrical outlets on exterior walls, and where pipes or wires enter the building. Here's what to look for and how to fix it:

• Window gaps: Apply removable caulk or weatherstripping. Cost: $3–$8 per window.
• Door drafts: Install door sweeps and replace worn weatherstripping. Cost: $8–$15 per door.
• Outlet drafts: Install foam gaskets behind outlet and switch plates on exterior walls. Cost: $0.25 each.
• Window film: For single-pane windows, shrink-fit window insulation film can reduce heat loss by up to 50%. Cost: $5–$10 per window.

In older properties with single-pane windows, these small fixes can cut a tenant's heating bill by $30–$50 per month. That keeps them happy and reduces turnover — which, as any experienced landlord will tell you, is one of the biggest drains on your bottom line.

Test Smoke Detectors and Carbon Monoxide Alarms

Winter is peak season for house fires and carbon monoxide (CO) poisoning. Space heaters, fireplaces, and overworked furnaces all increase the risk. The National Fire Protection Association reports that heating equipment is the second leading cause of home fires in the U.S., responsible for about 44,210 fires per year.

Test every smoke detector and CO alarm in every unit. Replace batteries — don't ask tenants if they've done it, just do it yourself during your fall walkthrough. Replace any alarm that's more than 7–10 years old (check the manufacture date on the back).

CO detectors are legally required in most states for rental properties with fuel-burning appliances or attached garages. If you don't have them in every required location, fix that immediately. The detectors cost $20–$40 each. A CO poisoning lawsuit will cost you everything.

Inspect the Roof Before Snow Loads Hit

A small roof issue in October becomes a massive roof issue under 18 inches of snow in January. Missing shingles, cracked flashing, and deteriorated sealant around vents and chimneys are entry points for water.

Hire a roofer or home inspector to do a fall roof inspection. It runs $150–$400, depending on the size and accessibility of the roof. They'll flag problems you can address now at a fraction of what they'd cost as emergency repairs mid-winter.

Pay particular attention to:

• Flashing around chimneys, vents, and skylights
• Shingles that are curling, cracked, or missing
• Valley areas where two roof planes meet
• The condition of the roof deck in the attic (look for daylight or water stains)

If your property has a flat roof, make sure drains are clear and the membrane is intact. Ponding water on a flat roof in winter is a recipe for leaks and structural damage.

Service the Water Heater

Water heaters work harder in winter because the incoming water is colder. A unit that's been limping along all summer might give out entirely when it's working overtime.

Have a plumber flush the tank to remove sediment buildup, check the anode rod, test the pressure relief valve, and verify the thermostat setting (120°F is the sweet spot — hot enough for comfort, not so hot it scalds or wastes energy). A water heater service call runs $100–$200 and extends the life of the unit significantly.

For properties with tankless water heaters, descaling is particularly important if you're in a hard water area. Mineral buildup reduces efficiency and flow rate.

Prepare Outdoor Areas and Landscaping

Outdoor winterization is easy to overlook, but ignoring it creates liability issues and property damage.

Walkways and Parking Areas

Make sure you have a snow and ice removal plan in place. For multi-unit properties, this means a contract with a plowing service or clear language in the lease about tenant responsibilities. Stock up on ice melt now — it's cheaper in October than it is in December.

Cracked or uneven walkways are slip-and-fall lawsuits waiting to happen. Repair them before they're hidden under snow and ice.

Exterior Faucets and Irrigation

Disconnect all garden hoses. Shut off water to exterior faucets from inside the building and open the outdoor spigot to let residual water drain. If you have an irrigation system, have it professionally blown out — water left in irrigation lines will freeze and crack the pipes.

Landscaping

Trim tree branches that overhang the roof or power lines. Heavy snow and ice can bring down branches, damaging the roof or knocking out power. Move outdoor furniture, grills, and other items to covered storage or secure them.

Communicate with Your Tenants — This Part Is Non-Negotiable

You can winterize the property perfectly, and your tenants can still cause a $10,000 disaster by leaving for a week-long vacation with the heat turned off. Tenant communication is just as important as any physical preparation.

Send a written winterization notice to every tenant by early November. Keep it friendly but clear. Here's what it should cover:

Essential Tenant Winter Responsibilities

• Keep heat at 55°F minimum — even when away. This is the absolute floor to prevent pipes from freezing. I actually recommend 60°F as a buffer.
• Disconnect garden hoses — a connected hose can cause the faucet and supply line to freeze all the way back into the wall.
• Open cabinet doors under sinks on exterior walls during extreme cold snaps to let warm air circulate around pipes.
• Never use the oven for heating — this is a carbon monoxide risk and a fire hazard. It sounds obvious, but every winter someone does it.
• Report heating problems immediately — a slow-to-heat furnace in November becomes a dead furnace in December. Catching issues early saves everyone grief.
• Keep vents and radiators clear — furniture and curtains blocking heat sources reduce efficiency and can be a fire risk.
• Know where the water shutoff is — in an emergency, fast action prevents catastrophic damage.

Using a platform like PropsManager makes sending these notices easy — you can create templates, send them to all tenants at once, and keep a record that they were delivered. That documentation matters if a preventable issue turns into a dispute.

Create a Winter Emergency Plan

Even with perfect preparation, things go wrong. Blizzards happen. Power goes out. Furnaces fail at the worst possible moment. Having a plan in place turns a crisis into an inconvenience.

Your Emergency Plan Should Include:

1. 24/7 emergency contacts for HVAC, plumbing, and electrical contractors. Build these relationships before you need them — contractors prioritize existing clients.
2. A communication plan so tenants know exactly how to reach you (or your property manager) for after-hours emergencies.
3. Backup heating options like portable electric heaters for temporary use during furnace repairs. Keep two or three in storage.
4. Insurance documentation readily accessible. Know your policy's coverage for water damage, ice dam damage, and loss of rental income.
5. A list of shutoff locations for water, gas, and electricity at each property.

If you're managing more than a handful of units, keeping track of emergency contacts, maintenance requests, and vendor relationships across properties gets complicated. That's where property management software earns its keep — everything is in one place, accessible from your phone at 3 AM when you're standing in a flooded basement.

The Hidden Cost of Skipping Winterization

Let me put some real numbers on this. I manage 14 units across three properties. Here's what my annual fall winterization costs versus what I've seen landlords pay when they skip it:

That's not even accounting for lost rent during repairs, tenant turnover caused by habitability issues, or potential legal liability. The winterization pays for itself many times over — and most of it is tax-deductible as a maintenance expense.

Month-by-Month Winter Prep Timeline

Timing matters. Here's when to tackle each task:

September

• Schedule HVAC inspections
• Order furnace filters in bulk
• Get quotes from snow removal contractors

October

• Complete HVAC tune-ups
• Insulate pipes
• Seal windows and doors
• Inspect roof
• Service water heater
• Clean gutters (first pass)

November

• Final gutter cleaning after leaf drop
• Send tenant winterization notices
• Test all smoke and CO detectors
• Winterize exterior faucets and irrigation
• Stock ice melt and emergency supplies
• Review insurance policies

December–February

• Monitor properties during cold snaps
• Check in with tenants periodically
• Clear snow and ice per your removal plan
• Respond quickly to maintenance requests

Leverage Technology to Stay on Top of It All

Managing winter prep across multiple properties is a lot to juggle. Spreadsheets work until they don't — and they definitely don't work when you're trying to remember which unit got its furnace serviced while standing in the snow.

PropsManager was built for exactly this kind of operational complexity. You can schedule recurring maintenance tasks, track vendor work orders, communicate with tenants through a centralized portal, and keep every receipt and inspection report organized in one place. When tax season rolls around, you've got documentation for every dollar spent on winterization.

If you're still tracking maintenance on paper or in a spreadsheet, it might be time to see what purpose-built property management software can do for your workflow. Check out our pricing plans to find the right fit for your portfolio, or request a demo to see how it works in practice.

Explore More PropsManager Resources

Looking for the right property management software? Check out our in-depth guides:

• Compare Property Management Software — See how PropsManager stacks up against Buildium, AppFolio, Rent Manager, and Propertyware.
• Software for Small Landlords — Built for landlords managing 1–50 units without the enterprise price tag.
• AI-Powered Property Management — Discover how automation can save you 5–10 hours per week.
• Solutions for Property Managers — Scale from 50 to 500+ units without scaling your costs.

Frequently Asked Questions

At what temperature should I worry about pipes freezing?

Pipes can begin to freeze when outdoor temperatures drop below 20°F, especially if they're in uninsulated areas like crawl spaces, garages, or exterior walls. The commonly cited 32°F is the freezing point of water, but pipes inside a building usually have some residual heat. That said, during prolonged cold snaps or wind chills below zero, even interior pipes near exterior walls can freeze. The safe bet is to insulate any pipe in an unheated space and keep the thermostat at 55°F or above at all times.

Who pays for winterization — the landlord or the tenant?

In most cases, structural winterization is the landlord's responsibility. That includes HVAC maintenance, pipe insulation, roof repairs, gutter cleaning, and window sealing. Tenants are generally responsible for day-to-day tasks like changing thermostat settings, disconnecting hoses, and reporting issues promptly. Your lease should clearly spell out these responsibilities. Some landlords include a winter addendum that outlines tenant obligations — it's cheap insurance against "I didn't know" excuses.

How much does it cost to winterize a rental property?

For a typical single-family rental, expect to spend $300–$800 on annual winterization, depending on the property's age and condition. That covers HVAC tune-up ($80–$150), gutter cleaning ($100–$250), pipe insulation ($50–$200 first year, minimal after), and weatherstripping ($25–$100). Older properties with deferred maintenance will cost more upfront but should level out after the first year. Multi-unit properties benefit from economies of scale — you can often negotiate volume discounts with HVAC and gutter cleaning contractors.

What should I do if a tenant reports a frozen pipe?

Act immediately. Have the tenant open the faucet to relieve pressure, then apply gentle heat to the frozen section using a hair dryer, heat lamp, or warm towels — never an open flame. If the pipe has already burst, have the tenant shut off the main water valve immediately and call a plumber. Document everything with photos and timestamps for your insurance claim. Speed is critical — every minute of flowing water means more damage and a bigger repair bill.

Can I require tenants to keep the heat at a certain temperature?

Yes, and you should. Most landlords include a lease clause requiring a minimum temperature of 55°F–60°F at all times, including when the tenant is away. This is enforceable and protects both parties. If a tenant turns off the heat to save money and a pipe bursts, you'll have documentation showing they violated the lease terms — which matters for insurance claims and potential cost recovery. Some jurisdictions even have local ordinances requiring minimum temperatures in occupied dwellings, so check your local codes.

Don't Wait Until the First Freeze

Here's the truth about winter preparation: it's boring, it's unglamorous, and nobody gets excited about insulating pipes on a Saturday morning. But the landlords who do it consistently are the ones who sleep through January nights without their phone ringing. The ones who skip it? They're the ones writing five-figure checks to restoration companies and explaining to tenants why they have to relocate for three weeks.

Start your winterization in September. Work through the checklist methodically. Communicate clearly with your tenants. And use the right tools — like PropsManager — to keep everything organized and on schedule.

Your future self, standing comfortably in a warm, dry, fully functional rental property in February, will thank you.